Monday, January 18, 2010

More Maui winter swells and my best stand up wave ever

What a day.

First a 2 hours session in Uppers Kanaha. After I passed by almost any Maui spot. Hookipa, Kuau, Baby beach, Pier one. Most were closing out and impossible to get out. So I ended up in Kanaha were you can always go out. Only this time there were 15 other guys in a place where you are normally by yourself.
Here is a little view of how it was.

I wasn't totally happy about the morning session so I went out again in the afternoon. I was still huge, Jaws was breaking just a couple of miles down the coast.
Kaua looked do-able once you were out. I went ot Noriagas and met Mike Eskimo with his french friend Bruno. We took of though the shore break, through a little channel which was the mostly open. And ended up outside. The waves were huge and hard to get. When They have this size they also have a lot of speed. The only thing you can do is, go deep, paddle hard and be lucky that there isn't a huge set showing up on the horizon. Twice a set almost got me. So I didn't waited around to long and found a big, good a frame wave and got my biggest wave I have ever riden on a stand up. A thrilling ride which lastes longer than I hoped for but finally closest out on me when I was almost in. Mike and Bruno weren't that lucky. The next set first got Bruno then 2 wave later Mike. Both their leaches broke and boards ended up where I was waiting inside. They had a exciting scrary swim but got washed in pretty quick. So no footage or pics.
An exciting day in een exciting week.
Here is the rest of the diary

Monday tow in what I thought was the biggest swell of this winter with some great rides and great swim (wipe outs), wind 2 BFT SW Waves XXL
Teusday, wind 1 BFT NE, waves XL, action Tow in
Wednesday wind Var 1BFT, waves M, no action
Thursday wind 3-4 BFT N,sail 5.8, waves M, no action
Friday wind 5 BFT, Sail 5.0, waves M windsurfing in Hookipa
Saterday wind 3BFT NE, waves MStand up family session in Kanaha
Sunday wind 2 BFT NE, waves XL, 2 Stand up session, Kanah & Kuau

Below are a few pics of last week with a small swell in Kuau.

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